Tanera Beg Summer Isles

Island Experience

Tanera Beg: Discovering the Coral Sands of the Summer Isles

Sailing south from Isle Ristol, the approach to Tanera Beg requires a keen eye and steady hand. Navigating the narrow channel of Caolas a Mhill Ghairbh—aptly translated from Gaelic as the “channel of the broken pieces”—reveals a landscape littered with ancient rocks and treacherous shoal banks.

Savvy Anchorage: Eileen Fada Mor

To secure a safe haven from the biting northerly winds, I dropped anchor beneath the lee of Eileen Fada Mor, a neighboring uninhabited gem within the Summer Isles archipelago. By anchoring here, I was able to ride back toward the center of the pool, ensuring the vessel stayed clear of the rocky shoreline while positioning myself perfectly to summit both islands from a single stopover.

Tanera Beg: Torridonian Sandstone  and the Maerl Coral Sand Beaches

While Tanera Beg shares the rugged Torridonian sandstone foundation of its larger neighbour, Tanera Mor, it possesses a singular, ethereal characteristic: its coral sand banks.

The pink-hued beaches of Tanera Beg are composed of Maerl, a rare, slow-growing calcified red seaweed that thrives in the clear waters of the Summer Isles.

At low tide, the Maerl glows with soft pink hues beneath the crystal-clear Atlantic water. Above the shoreline, the island’s interior is a lush tapestry of:

• Flora: Drifting seas of bog cotton, aspen poplars, and resilient heather.

• Terrain: Deep peat bogs contrasted against the stark, gnarled ancient rocks.

The Scramble: Ascending the Summit

Landing on Tanera Beg is an exercise in agility. Avoiding the sheer, twisted rock faces, I found a singular slab of rock suitable for the dinghy. The initial ascent through a “trod” of thick bracken and heather is a “hard-yard” experience—one that left me with bloodied shins but led eventually to a breathtaking plateau of bare red sandstone.

The island is bisected by a lush valley or saddle, where deep grasses and wildflowers flourish between the slopes. The final climb to the summit is a rhythmic grind, finding purchase on the “grippy” sandstone until the cairn is reached.

A Panoramic Masterclass: From the Minch to the Hebrides

Standing atop the summit cairn, the northerly breeze carries the scent of the salt and peat. The views from Tanera Beg are among the finest in Wester Ross:

To the West: The open expanse of The Minch and the distant silhouette of the Hebrides.

To the South: The headlands of Rubha Reidh and the misty peaks of the Isle of Skye.

To the North: A prehistoric skyline dominated by the iconic monoliths of Suilven, Stac Pollaidh, and the Coigach range.

The Untouched Lochan: A Microcosm of Nature

Just below the summit lies a small, peat-stained lochan. Unlike the beaches, which are sadly susceptible to floating sea plastics, this high-altitude water source remains an untroubled microcosm of life—a sanctuary where heather and highland vegetation live in perfect, undisturbed harmony.

Searching for the White Sands

Before returning to my vessel, Trade Winds, I rowed in search of the island’s famed white sands. Drifting in just two meters of water, the clarity was staggering. Though a camera can rarely capture the luminescence of Scottish coral sands, the memory of that turquoise water against the red sandstone remains a highlight of the Summer Isles.

I rowed back to Trade Winds, content in the fact that I had topped an island I had never before set foot upon. I had been lucky to do it on a fine day and all was good. One more island to this day and that was neighbour and big brother Tanera Mor.

The Shipwreck of the MV Jambo: Summer Isles, 2003

On June 29, 2003, the Summer Isles became the site of a significant maritime incident when the cargo vessel MV Jambo ran aground. The ship was en route from Dublin to Odda, Norway, carrying a full cargo of zinc sulphide.

The Cause of the Grounding

Despite being under the command of an experienced Croatian skipper, the vessel struck a sunken reef north of Tanera Beg just after 5:00 AM. The cause was attributed to human error; the Chief Officer, serving as officer of the watch, fell asleep at the wheel and missed a critical course alteration intended to keep the ship west of the islands.

Emergency Response and Environmental Concerns

The crew of seven were safely evacuated by the Lochinver lifeboat in calm conditions. However, the incident sparked immediate environmental fears regarding:

• 73 tons of heavy engine oil onboard.

• The potential impact of the zinc sulphide cargo on local fishing grounds.

Salvage Operations

Salvage experts from SMIT Salvage BV and Klyne Tugs acted quickly. A floating boom was deployed to contain potential leaks while the oil and remaining cargo were successfully extracted by early July.

Following a period of heavy autumn storms in September 2003, the Jambo settled into deeper water. Today, the wreck remains on the seabed, no longer visible from the surface but remembered as a narrow escape for the pristine environment of the Summer Isles.