Introduction
Rum
Rum is the largest of the Small Isles and is inhabited by about thirty or so people living in the village of Kinloch. The island has Celtic and Norse history but was latterly the sporting estate of the Bulloughs and their extraordinary sporting lodge Kinloch Castle. Rum was purchased by the Nature Conservancy Council in 1957.
Location
Information
The Naming of Rum
Rum is one of the Small Isles within the Inner Hebrides. Specifically, its name comes from the Scottish Gaelic language. For much of the 20th century, people spelled the name as “Rhum” instead.
However, the island’s former owner, Sir George Bullough, invented this unique spelling. He did not like the idea of holding the title “Laird of Rum.” Consequently, he added the letter ‘h’ to distance himself from the alcoholic drink. Ultimately, the island officially returned to its original spelling in recent years.
It is the largest of the Small Isles, and the fifteenth largest Scottish island, but is inhabited by only about thirty or so people, all of whom live in the village of Kinloch on the east coast.
The Two Faces of Rum
Rum consists of two distinct geological structures. Specifically, an ancient sandstone plateau dominates the north. Massive river flows originally laid these rocks down near the equator. This red sandstone tells a story of a tropical past.
Meanwhile, the landscape changes dramatically in the south. The massive Cuillin peaks rise sharply from the sea. These mountains are the shattered remnants of a great volcano. Consequently, the island offers a unique contrast between river deposits and volcanic fire.
Stone Age Settlers and Island History
Stone Age settlers lived on Rum for only part of the year. However, farmers began clearing trees to work the land 5,000 years ago. Christian hermits later lived on the island during the 7th and 8th centuries. Thereafter, Rum fell under Norse control before the Lord of the Isles took over.
Various clans, including the MacLeans of Coll, held the island from the 12th century. Consequently, the crofting and fishing communities grew to 400 people. Unfortunately, the Highland Clearances in the 1820s brought evictions and misery. The island passed into private hands in 1845. Ultimately, the Nature Conservancy Council purchased Rum in 1957 for £23,000.
Visits by Yacht
I have visited Rum several times. Usually, Loch Scresort served as a convenient late-night stop for sleep and food. On one trip, we explored the bay and Kinloch Castle. However, the deeper heart and high peaks of the island still await me.
As an anchorage, Loch Scresort is functional but not spectacular. Specifically, the water remains shallow for a long distance from the shore. The sandy bottom provides an assured anchor hold. Nevertheless, strong winds often whistle down from the high Rum mountains. This can make for a restless night on the water.
The Kinloch Castle experience is quite remarkable and is a throwback to another world. Step inside and you step back in time. It is as if the Bullochs had just left. The grand hallway is opulence defined. The orchestra music-box machine tucked away in the cupboard in the main reception room is quite fascinating.
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Inside Kinloch Castle
Walking through the corridors and bedrooms is an unforgettable experience. Immediately, the atmosphere transports you back to the Victorian era. You can almost see the past guests swaggering around with their nouveau riche pomposity.
Specifically, the exquisite fine silk wall coverings remain stunning to this day. Furthermore, I marveled at the heavy, overly engineered Victorian plumbing. The bath and multi-spouted shower serve as incredible statements of their time. Ultimately, the house acts as a frozen capsule of nineteenth-century ambition.
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The Challenge of Kinloch Castle
The challenge of maintaining the house is easy to see. Kinloch Castle stands as a temple to Victorian industrial opulence. However, it is now a decaying property made of red sandstone. Specifically, this material is better suited for the West End of Glasgow than the wild Small Isles.
The harsh island weather slowly erodes the soft stone. Consequently, many wonder if NatureScot is the right organization to manage the site. The future of the castle remains uncertain. Ultimately, I suspect the Kinloch challenge will rumble on for years to come.
Is Rum Worth a Visit?
I highly recommend a trip on the CalMac ferry from Mallaig. You can stay for a week or visit for a single day. The experience will certainly impress you. However, it may leave you questioning the wisdom of public spending.
The local community is growing in confidence. Specifically, this shift began after the government relaxed its control over the land. In April 2019, a local association requested a community transfer of Kinloch Castle. They hoped to take over the management of the historic site.
Unfortunately, the authorities refused the request in November 2019. They argued that the group had not identified enough funding. Independent experts concluded that the business case carried a high level of risk. Ultimately, the future of the castle remains a difficult puzzle for the islanders.
Today on Rum
A glance at the local community website confirms a new direction for the island. Specifically, there are now eight places to stay and seven different activities to enjoy. These include castle tours, crafts, and kayaking. This is a far cry from only a few years ago.
Back then, the island felt like a giant, unwelcoming natural laboratory. Now, Rum welcomes visitors with fresh energy. However, the harsh reality of island life remains very real. It requires immense enthusiasm and hard work. Most people would find this lifestyle incredibly demanding.
A Mix of Ownership
The Small Isles feature a fascinating mix of management styles. Specifically, the government owns Rum. Meanwhile, a private owner manages Muck. The National Trust for Scotland owns Canna and Sanday. Finally, the community owns Eigg.
These four islands use vastly different operational models. Consequently, we must ask which approach is “correct.” Furthermore, we must ask who benefits most. Is it the owner, the resident, or the nation itself? Ultimately, each island is a unique experiment in survival.
Footnote: The State of Rum Today
The island of Rum is currently navigating a period of significant transition. Specifically, the population has grown to around 40 persons. This small community is working hard to build a sustainable local economy. Consequently, new housing and independent businesses are slowly breathing life back into the village.
Meanwhile, the future of Kinloch Castle remains the island’s greatest challenge. The red sandstone building continues to decay while stakeholders debate its survival. However, the community looks upward for new opportunities. They are currently pursuing official Dark Skies status. Ultimately, they hope to protect their pristine night views to attract stargazers.
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