Gometra

Information

Gometra

My visit to Gometra was a moment I had long awaited. As the sun began to dip, we nudged into Gometra harbour and set anchor on a blissful, calm evening. The water sat like a mirror, reflecting a sense of peace that only the Hebrides can offer.

However, my time on this little Scottish island proved to be fleeting. My trip ashore lasted only an hour. In that short time, I walked and ran the paths of an island that seemed to be holding its breath. While the landscape was undeniably beautiful, I eventually drew a somber conclusion: Gometra was an island that was not truly opening its arms to welcome visitors.

The Atmosphere of the Shore

Initially, the stillness of the harbour suggested a warm invitation. But as I moved further inland, the atmosphere shifted. There is a specific kind of solitude found on islands like Gometra—a feeling that you are walking through a chapter of history that prefers to remain closed.

Geology and neighbouring islands

Gometra is like much of the landscape to the south west of Mull made of tertiary layers of lava flows, weathered over the millennia and shaped by glaciers. From Gometra you can see a host of islands including; Little Colonsay, Erisgeir, Jura, Colonsay, Islay, Iona, Staffa, Dubh Artach, Tiree, Dutchman’s Cap, Dioghlum, Skerryvore, Lunga, Fladda, Gunna, Coll, South Uist, Ulva & Mull. A truly remarkable outlook.

Gometra Harbour

Gometra Harbour was once the main landing point for the island with the only remains being a line of stones that once served as the landing pier.

Navigating Gometra: The First Signs and Locked Gates

Visiting Gometra provides a unique experience, but it often begins with a series of challenges for the foot traveller. Only a few steps from the landing point, I came face-to-face with the first of many hand-written signs. This notice requested that “for safety reasons,” visitors should not enter the open grass area between the cottages.

Instead, the sign directed pedestrians to follow the fence line toward the main track. Unfortunately, this “safe” route forced me across bouldered ground and through chest-high bracken. Furthermore, the density of the foliage made it a prime habitat for ticks, adding an extra layer of difficulty to the trek.

Overcoming the Gometra Coastline

Once I successfully pushed through the thick bracken, I finally reached a rough track suitable for a quad bike or tractor. However, the obstacles did not end there. The path soon led me to a formidable combination-locked gate.

While the main gate remained locked to vehicles, a small stile gate stood to the side for pedestrian access. Nevertheless, even this entrance proved difficult to navigate. The gate was heavily overgrown with intertwined foliage, requiring a significant heave to force it open against the undergrowth.

An Ominous Introduction

Ultimately, these initial hurdles served as an ominous introduction to the island. Although the scenery of the Inner Hebrides is often breath-taking, the physical barriers on Gometra set a challenging tone for the journey ahead. This start suggested that the island might not be as accessible as other Scottish destinations.

Rubha Dun Lasgain point

I set off from the harbour to follow the only track that is shown on OS maps. The track passes the old burial ground and on past Rubha Dun Lasgain point. From there the old Dun fort was visible from some wonderful sandy rocky foreshores.

Exploring the Grounds of Gometra House

As I continued further along the track, a row of small, traditional white cottages appeared. Immediately and by now fully expected, a prominent sign greeted me, requesting that visitors do not enter the private area. I chose to oblige this request and consequently diverted onto a path leading away to the left.

Navigating the Island Terrain

However, this detour required a further struggle through thick, dense bracken. Eventually, the foliage cleared, leading me into an open field. I crossed this expanse and headed toward the top corner, situated near the impressive Gometra House.

Despite the stature of the building, I saw no signs of life at all. The entire estate sat in what felt like watchful silence. Because I was working on a tight time schedule—and sensing a distinct atmosphere of “bugger off”—I decided not to linger.

Heading North West

Instead of approaching the house further, I chose to veer away. I followed a natural separation in the bracken, trekking toward the rugged north-west corner of the island. While the introduction to the island felt restrictive, the path ahead offered the promise of a more open, wilder landscape.

Route to summit blocked

The high point of 155m was above and to my right. I decided to look for grass shoots or gullies that I could nip up or contour upwards to what looked like heather and bracken wilderness.

On finding a narrow crag I scrambled up onto the next flat layer of lava bed. To my dismay I was greeted by a 2.5 m deer fence that ran all the way to the north and back to the south.

There was no way up so reluctantly I turned and set off down the steep slopes back the main track. I followed it on for a few yards and stopped overlooking Lon Mor bay. There was a small shed and beside it a beached yacht standing upright on large vertical wooden stobs. The clock was ticking, and I was by now thoroughly unimpressed with Gometra.

The Curious Case of the Gometra Anchor Gate

During my return journey, I encountered a sight that could only be described as absurd: a standalone, closed gate that seemed to guard nothing at all. While most gates serve to keep things in or out, this particular structure raised a puzzling question: When is a gate not a gate?

An Ornate and Ominous Design

The gate featured intricate ironwork, clearly designed to impress any passer-by. However, the most striking detail sat perched precariously on top. An actual maritime anchor had been set into the ironwork, looking as though it were ready to drop on the head of anyone daring to pass through.

Instead of a simple “bucket of water on the door” prank, this felt like a much heavier—and potentially more permanent—deterrent. Consequently, I decided that I would rather not risk being “anchored” that afternoon.

A Light-hearted Detour

Rather than testing the hinges of the gate, I simply stepped around the adjacent stone wall and continued on my way. By this point, the absurdity of the island’s obstacles had truly set in, and I found myself giggling at the sheer eccentricity of the place.

Although Gometra had felt unwelcoming at first, this bizarre landmark provided a moment of levity. It serves as a reminder that when you explore the Scottish islands, you should always expect the unexpected.

Beyond the gates stood a splendid summer house with views out to The Treshnish Isles, Staffa, Dutchmen’s Cap, Iona and beyond.

Return run to Gometra Harbour

I ran back the two miles or so the harbour. On the way I passed the island coup (dump). An old JCB and tractor stood rusting and rotting away alongside a sheets of discarded metal. It was a rather sad end to my visit.

A Final Encounter on the Gometra Coast

As I continued my trek toward the shore, I spotted two people and a dog positioned near a beached rubber dinghy. Hoping for a brief moment of connection, I stood atop a high clump of rock and heather to get a better vantage point. From there, I looked down and waved, offering a silent greeting across the rugged terrain.

A Cold Reception

However, the response—or lack thereof—was immediate. One instinctively knows when others are deliberately keeping their heads down. Instead of returning the gesture, they remained focused on the sand and their feet, pointedly avoiding any acknowledgment of another person’s presence.

While this lack of greeting felt consistent with the island’s somewhat guarded atmosphere, I didn’t let it dampen my spirits. Ultimately, I decided “so what,” and turned my focus back to the journey.

Returning to Springtide

Consequently, I left the silent trio behind and made a direct line for the beach. Springtide, waited for me in the bay, representing the warmth and hospitality that the island itself seemed to lack. By the time my running shoes hit the sand, I was ready to leave the eccentricities of Gometra behind.

So that was Gometra, I ran on back to the dinghy and paddled back out to Springtide for a beer and to lament on a very unsatisfactory visit to Gometra.

History

Gometra (Scottish Gaelic: Gòmastra) is an island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, lying west of Mull. It lies immediately west of Ulva, to which it is linked by a bridge, and at low tide also by a beach. It is approximately 425 hectares (1.64 sq mi) in size.

According to Gillies (1906) Gometra is from the Norse gottr + madr + ey and means “The good-man’s island” or “God-man’s island”. The Norse Goðrmaðray may also mean “warrior priest’s island”. The Gaelic Gu mòr traigh meaning “only at low tide” has been proposed as the meaning of the name. Mediaeval charters render the name “Gomedrach”.

The island is agricultural, formerly growing grain for the monastery on Iona. Once home to a population of over a hundred, it is now down to a tight-knit community of a handful of people, up to a thousand black face sheep, highland cattle, pigs, horses, a flock of feral goats, and red deer. Historical sites on the island include an old burial ground, the remains of two duns and old settlements. It has no school, doctor, or ferry.

Gometra changing ownerships

The island became part of the Kingdom of the Isles, during the Norse era. Whereas nearby Ulva and Staffa belonged to the MacQuarries from the 10th century, Gometra became a possession of the Iona monastery prior to passing into the hands of the Duke of Argyll.

In 1821 Ulva was sold by the trustees of the MacDonalds of Staffa to Lt-General Charles MacQuarrie (brother of General Lachlan MacQuarrie), and after his death was bought in 1835 by Francis William Clark of Ulva, a lawyer from Stirling who began a brutal clearance of a substantial proportion of the inhabitants of Ulva within a few years. However the MacDonalds of Staffa retained Gometra until 1858 when it was sold to Donald MacLean, who built Gometra House.

In 1932, the island was sold to the English mountaineer Hugh Ruttledge, who had taken early retirement from the Indian Civil Service and planned a life as a farmer. While living on the island, Ruttledge led two British expeditions to Mount Everest, in 1933 and 1936, and took up sailing. In 1950, he moved to Dartmoor.

Gometra House had fallen into disrepair and parts were near collapse by the 1980s, but was reoccupied and restored as a family home in the 1990s. There are currently four households on Gometra, and the islanders are dedicated to a low-impact lifestyle, living off-grid.

Scotisland Neighbours

Scotisland Neighbours: Staffa  Erraid   Dutchman’s Cap

Lical Information: Wiki    Gometra (Official!!)